Patagonia, Chile - Part 1 - Puerto Montt to Coyhaique

Our Patagonia route

Rather than to head to the first areas that come to mind for Patagonia (Torres del Paine, Tierra del Fuego), we decided to visit the less popular areas of central Patagonia (the Aysén region), following the Carretera Austral ("Southern Highway") through the newest National Parks in Patagonia.

It is a spectacular area - reminiscent of the Alaskan fjords, the San Juan mountains in Colorado, alpine meadows and spires of the Italian Dolomites, and the rivers and mountains of Montana...all in the same area!

We started in Puerto Montt, and traveled south to Cochrane, and back.  Here's our basic route:

Heading South on the Carretera Austral 

The Carretera Austral highway project (connecting the length of Patagonia) was started in the 1980's.  It is not yet complete - it ends at Villa O'Higgins, and requires ferry travel through at least two roadless sections.  Of the sections that are open, only about half are paved, with many areas under construction.  Even in it's current state, it has been transformative in opening up access to the Aysén region, which until recently has only been accessible by boat or plane.

The second mandatory ferry crossing at Hornopiren

Moments before, two orca whales cruised through the the bay

Enjoying the sunshine after three days of rain in Patagonia

Fjords and snowcapped peaks of the Hornopiren National Park

Our rental car for the trip is the white Peugeot Traveller on the left...
not quite the high-clearance SUV we planned for the Patagonia roads

Southern caracara raptor

This harrier hawk repeatedly attacked the much larger southern caracara and drove it away from our ferry

Glacial green waters of the Rio Michimahuida in the fog

Corcovado volcano rising above Chaitén, which is a town that was rebuilt after being buried in 2008 by the ashes of another volcano (Chaitén volcano)

Parque Pumalin

The first National Park we visited, and one of the first parks established through the work of Doug Tompkins.  The campground (large grassy areas, cook shelters, and bathrooms scattered throughout the rain forest) at Caleta Gonzalo was one of the nicest we've ever seen, and virtually empty.

Typical construction of miles of trails constructed in the rain forest and steep mountains throughout the park

Alex enjoying the Pumalin Park rain forest

One of many (many!) waterfalls throughout the park

Rain forest and rainbow

Waterfall family selfie

After a few days, the landscape can't compete with books...

Top of the Chaitén volcano overlooking Lago Blanco

Chaitén volcano on the left - still smoking after erupting and burying the town of Chaitén in ash in 2008.

Alex at the Gates of Mordor approaching Chaitén volcano

Ancient Alerce tree...over 3,000 years old

Parque Queulat

The Ventisquero Colgante (hanging glacier) in Queulat Park

Even the rocks grow life in the rain forest of Queulat

Coyhaique Area

Coyhaique is the regional capital of Aysén, and our base camp as Alex and Katie completed their semester of school.

Fields of lupin flowers were in bloom all across Patagonia

Lago Elizalde view typical of the skies, lakes, mountains, and meadows across the Aysén region

"Valle de la Luna" northwest of Coyhaique on the Argentina boorder

Katie after realizing how cold the glacier-fed water is

Katie at an unnamed waterfall off of an untraveled dirt road near Coyhaique

Brilliant turquoise waters near the headwaters of Rio la Paloma

Keri enjoying a sunny Patagonia day

Katie loved drinking from the pure glacial streams

Cerro Cuatro Puntos rising above lupin meadows

Giant bees were everywhere in the flowers

Waterwheel in Coyhaique National Reserve

Coyhaique

Precious new lambs were everywhere in the meadows
TTC says: "AAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! It's too cute!"

Fishing Patagonia

The fishing around Coyhaique lived up to expectations!  I didn't hire a guide, didn't have a boat, and didn't have waders.  Which meant I didn't fish the big, famous rivers (Simpson, Baker, etc.).  Yet I caught hundreds of fish in six different rivers, with as many as 60+ fish in a few hours of fishing.

Alex caught five fish in less than an hour of fishing

One of many rivers within a short drive of Coyhaique

Another river and meadows near Coyhaique

This brown trout was typical of the fish we caught on these rivers

We caught more than 20 fish in this spot

Keri and friend

Alex setting another brown trout

Puerto Aysén and Simpson River Reserve

Aysén Bridge reflecting in the Aysén River

Taking a break from kayaking for a traditional mate tea from the yerba mate plant

Morning on the Aysén river

One of the fishing boats in the Puerto Aysén boat cemetery island

Simpson River 

Katie and nalca plants - the stalks of these giant plants are eaten raw and used to create natural juice drinks

Alex in a haunted forest - there are orderly pine forests like this in many areas, as the Chile forest service rebuilds areas that were deforested ("put into service") in the 1970's, resulting in massive erosion and landslides.

Katie the sherpa

Next...

We will head south from Coyhaique to marble caves, glaciers, and Parque Patagonia...